Cesis in Latvia

Cesis is undoubtedly one of the most attractive towns in Latvia and the Baltic region. At just 90 kilometers away from Riga, it should be included in any first time visit to Latvia.

Cesis Castle - Latvia

Cesis Castle - Latvia

Dominated by its castle ruins, it is a town of winding cobbled streets and protected historical buildings with the Livonian stone castle, dating back several centuries, arguably the most impressive and best preserved castle ruin in Latvia.

The area around Cesis is characterised by hilly terrain, picturesque lakes, other historical towns such as Sigulda and Straupe, and the truly beautiful 900 square kilometers Gauja National Park. It is the fantastic backdrop of Cesis castle that tends to most impress first-time visitors to the town. During summer months the castle ruins play host to a number of outdoor performances. This is fitting because as well as being one of Latvia’s oldest towns, many of the country’s leading musical talents have spent time here either growing up in the town or studying music at its famous academy.

Turbulent history of Cesis

There is archaeological and historical evidence of settlements here dating back to the 11th century, and it was during the 12th century that both Livs and Latgals made Cesis their home. In 2006 the 20,000 citizens of this Vidzeme community proudly celebrated the 800th anniversary of the founding of Cesis with several weeks of parties, cultural and sport events, as well as a number of high profile classical and pop concerts performed by many of Latvia’s most outstanding artists.

Because of its obvious strategic position on the Gauja River, Cesis has both prospered and suffered for this fact during the past one thousend years. In 1383, for example, the town became a member of Europe’s most exclusive and important trading club – the Hanseatic League; but then, almost 200 years of prosperity later, Ivan the Terrible paid a visit to Cesis and laid siege to the town, killing hundreds after his Russian troops surrounded it on all sides.

As if it wasn’t bad enough, almost the entire town burnt to the ground in a terrible fire in 1671, and three decades later, in 1703, the Russians were back, this time sacking the town’s famous castle. This story of prosperity followed by disaster continued again and again over the next two hundre years until, on June 19 1919 , the greatest battle in the history of Cesis was fought over five momentous days. The Battle of Cesis proved to be a vital conflict during the 1918-1920 Latvian War of Independence as a 10,000 – strong German army attempted to restore German monarchy rule in Latvia.

When the joint army of 7,000 Latvians and Estonians sent the Germans into retreat on June 24, it paved the way fot the Ulmanis-lead Latvian government to return to Riga and for Latvia to be officially recognized by the international community as an independent state in 1921.

Tourism in Cesis

After the decisive Battle of Cesis in 1919 this former Hanseatic settlement was changed forever. The historic town was no longer the commercial centre it once was, and the emphasis shifted to tourism. Its location on the very edge of the Gauja National Park made the town the perfect base for exploring the many natural wonders on offer nearby, while Cesis itself with its wining cobblestone streets, fascinating collection of dilapidated wooden buildings and ancient castle mounds bacame a tourism curiosity in its own right.

Around town, places of interest include the Cesis Museum of History and Art, St John´s Church and the New Castle. The beauty of Cesis, however, is that this is the kind of place one should visit for its general natural aesthetic and slow pace of life, rather than for a list of tourist sites that the visitor wishes to `tick off`. For this reason it is a year-round destination, although the outdoor summer concerts next to the castle should not be missed.

Close by to Cesis is the Araisa Lake dwelling, where the ancient tribe known as the Latgalians lived more than a millennium ago. Nowadays, it is possible to visit the reconstructed fortress settlement, built on huge logs from the local forests, and located in the middle of Araisa Lake.

Books:


Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania Travel Guide

Latvia, 5th (Bradt Travel Guide)